Sharon Ardiana’s always-packed Lower Haight spot is known for its wood-fired, seasonally driven, California pies. Her crust has a little more heft than the classic Neapolitan, and toppings range from caramelized nettles to runny farm eggs. Our favorites: the Amatriciana, a spicy, pancetta-studded concoction; and the Bianca, so creamy you won’t miss the tomato sauce.

Ragazza, 311 Divisadero Street, between Oak and Page Streets (415-255-1133 or ragazzasf.com).